Roma two: the Colosseum and Forum; Piazza Navona and Castel Sant'Angelo

On our second full day in Rome, we quickly ate breakfast and headed for the 75 bus to take us to the Colosseum. I was really excited to see the massive ancient structure and it did not disappoint. So huge!! We had entry tickets for 9:30, which included an audio/video guide for each of us. We haven't done that before and were not sure if the kids would enjoy it, or we would enjoy it. As it turned out, it was very interesting and informative and the kids were totally engrossed. I did notice that they paid all of their attention to the device and not so much to the actual Colosseum, but we learned a lot about the games and the architecture and the seating -- I think it was worth it. The theatricality of the games -- the production values of trapdoors and exotic animals and music and the crowd participation -- were just incredible. I can see why it was so popular.

From there, we entered the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. It was cool to see the great diversity and number of ruins - old arches and markets and religious structures, the hall of the Vestal Virgins - but we had a bit of a tough time navigating it. It was really hot and the sun was directly overhead, and we all wilted. Sebastian was kind of done with antiquities and ruins and walking and looking. We tried to learn about what we were seeing as we were going, but it was a bit of a slog. So we instead headed up to the top of Palatine Hill, which provided an amazing view over the Forum, and from there wandered through the trees and gardens and ruined palazzos to the exit. We possibly should have saved the Forum for another day entirely (next visit!), or should have gotten the audio guide so that we understood more of what we were seeing.

A vestal virgin, and L.

By noon, we were done with assorted ruins and headed for the old Jewish Quarter to see the cute Fontana della Tartarughe (turtles) and because Steve had his eye on a bakery that specialized in ricotta cheesecake. (Sadly, it was chiuso per ferie, or closed for August vacation.) But we made up for it with lunch at Rosciolo -- some of the best pizza I've ever had, and outstanding fish, and my favorite cappuccino of the trip, and various pastries. We ate like we were starving, because we were, and then walked home for an afternoon rest.

Around 4, Liesl and I decided to set out alone for one last adventure in Rome -- Steve was asleep and Sebastian was too tired to join us. We walked over the beautiful pedestrian Ponte Sisto, past the market square of Campo de' Fiori and the Palazzo Farnese, through the ground floor of the Museo di Roma, and into the Piazza Navona. What a beautiful place! The light was again just gorgeous - low, slanting, warm, tropical light - and the square was alive with musicians and artists and people. We posed in front of the Moro and Neptune fountains and watched a spray-painting artist work his magic in front of the crowd.

From there, we went north to the river, to the Ponte over to Castel Sant'Angelo. The circular castle was originally a mausoleum and then it became a fortress for the popes before becoming a museum -- it is extremely well preserved and had the most amazing views of Rome and the Vatican. We loved it - you could walk around and around, winding your way along the old battlements, peeking out through gunholes (Liesl loved pretending to shoot and hide), walking over the old moat on the only bridge, all the way to the top. There was an outer wall, a moat, the drawbridge, and then even if you made it into the inner tower, there was a trapdoor that could be operated. Amazing. Apparently one pope was able to take refuge in the castle for 7 months during a sack of Rome in the 1500s.

We were both really happy with this final castle adventure in Rome - and hungry, and tired - so we walked back to Trastevere to meet up with our boys and eat dinner.

Steve and I both loved Rome more than we expected - for Steve, it reminded him of New York City in its diversity, the food choices, the fashion and the street life, the transportation network. He wasn't even sure he wanted to go to Rome on this trip, but I really wanted to, and he has really loved it. I was excited to come and see the famous historical sights - I went through a period in which I read a good bit of Roman historical fiction - but I wasn't expecting to find the city so beautiful. I love all the ancient structures scattered throughout the modern city, but also the piazzas and fountains, the streets and buildings, and again the sunlight was just beautiful. We would love to come back.